We love Frames of all types.

We love frames of all types.

Tiny ones, inset with small stones, oversized baroque ones, rickety wooden ones -- frames can show off a photo, a print or a piece of art...or they can do so much more. Here are some ideas

•Frame a piece of cork
•A mirror
•Or a piece of wood coated in chalkboard paint (or have masonite cute to size) to make a blackboard
•Slip a piece of wallpaper behind a piece of glass, remove the hanging mechanism and use your frame as a tray. Works especially well with an ornate or deep frame (a framed mirror can do double duty as a tray or leaning against a wall as a looking glass)
•Hang a piece of art on the wall, then hang a frame separately, deliberately letting the wall space between frame and art peek through. Works best on a brightly coloured wall.
•Boring medicine chest? Find a frame to match the size of your mirror and glue it on. Or forgo the mirror all together.
•Spray paint a collection of frames the same colour, then hang them on your wall empty, letting the frames be the art.
•Make a French ribbon board or a mat board with pockets to organize your receipts and small papers.
•A large frame can double as a headboard -- empty or framing a piece of fabric

Want a professional, click HERE for High Street Gallery.

Why Look for a Certified Picture Framer?

Why look for a Certified Picture Framer?

When seeking to protect and preserve your memorabilia, artwork, and valuable items, look to a master with the thorough knowledge of techniques and materials for the best possible presentation.

The designation of MASTER CERTIFIED PICTURE FRAMER is awarded by the Professional Picture Framers Association (PPFA) .  This certification signifies that a framer has demonstrated superior framing skills and has passed the industry's most comprehensive test of practical preservation and framing knowledge.

PPFA initiated the MCPF program in 2003 to raise the standards of the framing profession.  The improvement in educational standards within the industry and the recognition of those framers who have proven their knowledge and expertise would establish a professional criteria for the proper identification and preservation of frame artwork.

Trust your valuable items to a professional – look for the MCPF designation.  Click HERE for High Street Gallery

Framing Metalic Prints

My first thought was to frame it under museum glass.  Museum glass is the highest-quality framing glass available, with superior visibility, glare reduction, and UV protection--and I mean really superior.  It is normally used on museum-quality artwork, so the collections can be as easily seen as possible, but will suffer the least damage from their environment.  It would almost certainly give you the effect you want; visually, museum glass has no equal in beauty and visibility.   It almost looks as though there is no glass there.  The cost of this glass is consistent with the quality--it's pricey. Museum glass dealers will have a sample for you to try over your print and help you decide whether the high cost is worth it to you.

You may well decide to go ahead and frame the print without glass.  There are three things to consider.  First, how will you keep the piece clean?  Depending on the fragility of the piece you will need to gently dust it periodically.  (With a piece that absolutely can't be touched, I suggest just gently blowing the dust off every few weeks.) Also, if you smoke in your home, the smoke will eventually discolor the piece and it will become yellowish; consider not smoking in the room the glass-free piece is in.

The next question is, how will you design the framing package?  You need to consider how it looks, of course, but you also need to do what is possible; the absence of glass means you have to find another way to keep the piece from falling out of the front of the frame. 

For a paper piece, you can just have it mounted (your framer can help you with selecting the mounting method), mat it, and put it into the frame as though glass were a part of the package.  That's probably the simplest and nicest-looking option.

 You can also have the piece dry-mounted and frame it straight up with no mat; this is good for inexpensive and/or temporary displays, not really for pricey items.

The third question relates to the type of frame you choose. You may want to use a wooden frame.  Metal frames (the kind that screw together at the corners and have spring clips around the perimeter of the frame to keep the art firmly in the frame) are okay for the inexpensive/temporary art but they have the potential to damage the edges of nicer works.  A wood frame is really your best bet, because the framer is more in control of the snugness of the fit.

You can get wooden frames in sections; they come in pairs, and you buy two pairs in the dimensions you need.  They are easy to put together at home.  If you're dry-mounting the piece, or using a custom-sized mat, you'll need special equipment; this would be a good time to involve a framer.  You can have the framer mat and mount it, then put it into the frame at home.

Floating it sounds good, too.  My decision to float or not is usually decided by 2 things.  First, consider whether the method is appropriate for the piece.  (Your framer can help you make the decision.) Next,  consider the condition of the edges.  If they look interesting enough to display, consider a float. 

Paper pieces are typically floated on mats, while dimensional canvases are usually floated in an L-shaped floater frame.  For your piece, I'd consider a sink float.  A sink float mat is a top mat with a window in it mounted over a bottom mat with no opening. The piece is mounted to the backing mat, and the backing can be seen through the mat window all the way around the piece.  Your framer can make you one, or you can buy precut mats and put them together yourself.

Like these ideas, click HERE for High Street Galler and a true professional.

Auburn California Master Framer

High Street Gallery located in Auburn, California has been providing custom picture framing services to the Auburn area and local surrounding communities since 1996.

Kelli Fortenbaugh MCPF, and owner of High Street Gallery, has worked in the picture framing industry for over 24 years and is a Master Certified Picture Framer (MCPF).

She is also the current president of the Northern California Chapter of Professional Picture Framers Association.

We specialize in the exotic and unusual. Click here to read all about the services we offer.

Are you interested in having a custom frame done? Click here to read our article entitled, "Before You Visit Your Custom Framer", featured in the Sierra Heritage HOME magazine .

Why Hire a Master Framer?

The trend of hiring a master framer for putting your most prized pictures or paintings has become very popular of late. It is recommended that the person hired to do the job for you offers good value for money and delivers quality work.

The options of who to hire to frame your artwork or pictures are endless, as all master framersare adept at what they do and produce wonderful frames that are always received well by their customers. They have perfected their skills and have extensive knowledge about the techniques that are common in the industry, which enables them to create numerous customers.

They know their work inside out, which enables them to produce a range of frames that are beautiful and enchanting. These days many art galleries, museums and auction houses opt for framers and the trend is gaining popularity with the general public too.

It will not be wrong to call these framers, artists, as they come up with exquisite styles so that they can cater to customers all across the globe. This is something that is affecting their popularity in a positive way.

Why choose a Master Framer?

When you think about framing a valuable piece of art, you want to opt for the best framer, who will do your picture justice by coming up with a framing style most suitable for it and by naming a price that will not be hard on your pocket. You would want a frame that would highlight your painting, without overshadowing it besides complimenting its style to the fullest.

You can accomplish all these goals just by getting in touch with a master framer. When you opt for a master framer, you can stop worrying about these details, as the master framer will create a frame that is worth your artwork or picture.

Kinds of Frames:
Many people do not have an idea of what kind of frame they should have for their paintings; hence, a good master framer will always have a collection of antique frames for you. The advantage of having an antique frame is that not only would it make your painting look impressive but will also add a chunk of history to your wall.

If you want the frame to have a personal touch, you can always ask a master framer to create wood frames, metal frames or the newly introduced virtual frames, which will be tailor made to your requirements.

However, the best part about hiring a master framer is the shipping facilities that he will offer, which enable you to hire master framers anywhere in the world and be sure that your frame will arrive in the most appropriate way available. This reasonably priced service ensures that your frame is delivered to you, the way it was made and will also make sure that not only it is delivered to you but also hang the frame up for you. So, consult with a master framer and decorate your walls in the best way.

Want to talk to a professonal Master Framer? Click HERE for Kelli Fortenbaugh, High Street Gallery

Cloth Picture Frames

 How to Make Cloth Picture Frames

  Instructions

 o                           1

Choose a standard size frame of either 5-by-7 or 8-by-10 inches. Choose a frame that is flat on the front and avoid frames that have ridges. Remove the backing and glass. Pick out one piece of fabric large enough to cover the front of the frame, or sufficient pieces of coordinated color and pattern to overlay on each other that will cover the frame. Cut strips and arrange as desired, so that each piece contrasts with the piece next to it so it will stand out.

o                           2

Apply Mod Podge around the top and sides of the frame with a 1-inch foam brush. If using one large piece of fabric, lay it over the frame and smooth it flat, pressing out any air bubbles. If using strips of different fabric, lay each strip slightly overlapping each other to cover the frame. Where necessary, apply Mod Podge to the fabric areas that need sealant to be secured to the frame. Let dry, then flip the frame over so the back of the frame is facing up. If using one large piece of fabric, cut an "X" from corner to corner with scissors. Trim excess fabric to leave just enough fabric to fold in and fold around the outside of the frame.

       

o                           3

Secure the fabric around the frame with a popsicle stick from the front to the back, and from the center in just enough to cover the edge and allow the glass insert to fit in snugly. Apply additional Mod Podge where needed to the fabric to secure it to the frame. Let dry. Add a finishing touch to the frame by hot gluing decorative trim around the frame opening and a contrasting cord around the outside of the frame. Insert the glass insert, a photo or picture to fit the frame opening, and put the back of the frame in.

Want a expert to help you, click HERE for High Street Gallery.

Glass Frames

Glass Frames, How to make!

                                           

Measure the pictures you would like framed. Calculate the total perimeter (outside edges) of the pictures; this determines how much molding and balsa you will need. Purchase enough crown molding to cover this length. The crown molding will be the design of your frame. These are available in solid woods and textural patterns, including quirky themes like seashells. Purchase coordinating amounts of balsa wood to create the lip on the back of your frame. Make a list of the measurements picture by picture so you know what size your glass pieces should be, then purchase your glass pre-cut to size.

o                           2

Mark the strips of molding to designate pieces for each side of your frame. Leave a couple of inches between each length for corners. Mark 45° angles between each piece; each finished piece will look like a trapezoid. The shorter length of the trapezoid will be the size of the photo edge, and the longer length will be the outside edge of the frame. The piece without the balsa wood will be the top of the frame and is where the glass will be inserted.

o                   

3

Use the miter saw to make your cuts. If you are hesitant cutting, leave a little extra length to trim off.

o                           4

Use the utility knife to cut strips of the balsa wood 3/4 the length of the bottom, right and left sides of your frame. Glue these to the back of the crown molding, on the outside edge, leaving the top side blank. This is the lip to hold the glass and picture in place. Ensure it dries smoothly by affixing a C-clamp.

o                           5

Lay out the individual pieces of cut molding (with balsa attached) to form your picture frame. Check to see that they fit together correctly and for any needed alterations. Add wood glue between the angles on each corner. Hold in place with a band clamp, and leave it to dry.

o                           6

Cut the foam board to the size of the glass with a utility knife.

o                           7

Strengthen the corners by nailing them together. Drill small holes into the sides of each corner of the frame so the nails won't be seen straight on. Hammer in a nail into these holes for extra support. The drill is used to prevent the wood from splitting; make the hole slightly smaller than the nails.

o                           8

Sand the frame down if needed. If you're using a wood molding, add stain or paint for a professional finish. If you are using a subtle frame, you can add paint and decorations to the actual glass.

o                           9

Insert framing hooks with wire to the back. Slip in the glass, then the picture and the foam board under the frame's lip

 

Sounds tough to do? Click HERE to visit a Master Framer, High Street Gallery for answers.

Repair Wood Picture Frames

Repair corners on a wood picture frame.

Lots of things can cause a picture frames corners to come loose and for the frame in general to become in disrepair.

The constant expanding and contracting caused by temperature and moisture changes that go on during the day in most houses.

A trip to the floor can really loosen a picture frame's joints.

Fumes from cooking can be rough on the picture frame corner joints and the finish as well. Outside polutants that come inside every time a door or window is opened can be bad for wood picture frame joints and finish.

Picture frame repair is pretty easy to do as long as you do it slowly and carefully.

Separate the loose wood picture frame corners.

If a corner joint needs a little prying always pry from the underneath part of the frame and never from the top, because it will compress the wood on the frame member on one side.

Never pry from the outside of the corner, as it could break a portion of the corner off and if you pry from the inside of the corner it will compress the wood and make the corner appear to not join properly.

Want to learn from a master, click HERE to talk to High Street Gallery in Auburn.

Needlework, Textiles & Frabrics for Proper Custom Framing

 

Needlework, Textiles & Fabrics - Proper Custom Framing
Custom framing is an excellent choice for displaying needlework (cross stitches, hooked rugs, tapestries, quilts, etc.) as well as most kinds of textiles, and other fabrics such as painted silks. A well designed frame showcase not only offsets the beauty of the work, but also protects it from environmental damage.

The approach to framing each of the above mentioned materials will vary from one piece to the next. A large, heavy hooked rug for example, needs to be handled differently than a delicate silk. Following are some ideas and suggestions on methods of framing these materials, things to take into consideration, and questions you might ask the custom framer of your choice.

One of the first things to pay attention to is the weight of the material. Anything that is very light weight or delicate should be put behind glass. It is a good idea to put all items behind protective glass, but heavier, sturdier items can go without if that is your choice.

The glass though, should never come in direct contact with the piece of art. Either matting or some type of spacer needs to be used to lift the glass slightly. This is something that should be discussed with and explained by your custom framer.

Another issue to address is how the item will be presented and "mounted" in the frame. A cross stitch should be stretched and blocked over an appropriate backing, hiding the rough edges, while something like a quilt or tapestry should be sewn to a backing and allowed to hang, exposing the edging which is generally intended to be seen. (Reinforcements such as Velcro strips behind the quilt may be called for if it is of a particular weight or size.) Although glass is a reasonable extra measure to take (and anything with existing damage should be protected with it), some opt to forego glass on sturdier materials such as these. Again, these are things to discuss with a professional.

The type of matting and/or backing is an important subject to decide on as well. While the colors in most cross stitches look attractive using cotton matting, textiles and such often have a depth and richness of color that is not necessarily enhanced by the use of cotton mats. They can have a tendency to appear dull. Consider using mats wrapped in linen, silk, suede, leather or other materials that might complement the vibrant dyes in a more suitable way. There is a wide variety of matting available that comes already covered in these types of fabrics, or any professional should have the ability to wrap a mat with the fabric of your choice. The options are many, so feel free to collaborate with your custom framer.

Last to choose is the frame. Pay close attention to the amount of detail in the art work. Very often, the detail is extraordinary and complicated. If this is the case, while you may be tempted to choose an elaborately styled frame to "match" the design, it is usually best to go for something simpler and more toned down. A moulding with intricate detail against a tapestry with intricate detail will "fight" for the viewer's eye. Ultimately, the goal is to offset and enhance the art with complementary colors, tones and style. The last thing you want to do is overpower the art with a frame that is too much. Conversely, when framing something such as a minimalist, Asian-styled, hand painted silk, you may prefer a moulding with a bit more detail to it. The piece may appear too lifeless without a more decorative frame.

It is important that each of these types of materials be handled and treated properly to ensure its longevity. Once the correct treatment has been addressed, there are many choices and decisions to make when it comes to the overall design. One person's taste is not the same as the next. Take the time to consult a professional (or more than one), get his or her feedback and choose the one with whom you feel most comfortable so you are confident the best possible showcase was created for the work of art.

The key to framing these kinds of materials, click HERE for High Street Gallery, Auburn California

How to Become a Picture Framer Apprentice

 

Professional picture framers spend years perfecting the art of preserving prints.

Picture framing is a deceptively difficult skill to master and requires a very steady hand. Framing a piece of artwork or a photograph is tough to do without harming it. You must be able to accurately manipulate the picture, keeping the edges safe from damage, then carefully apply a semi-permanent adhesive to keep the art firmly secured within the frame. Most professional picture framers started out as apprentices, generally doing between two and four years of on-the-job training with a master picture framer.

 Instructions

• 1 Search out a nearby framing company that specializes in pictures and artwork. Schedule a meeting to speak with one of the master framers about the job. Picture framing is a career path with few formal training options, so master framers are generally very excited to help people get started on their own framing careers.
• 2 Ask the picture framers you meet with if they have any apprenticeships open. Have them direct you to other framing businesses that may have openings. Apply for a part-time job at department stores that offer picture framing, and use this as a ground-level opportunity to learn about job skills needed.
• 3 Take classes in art preservation and art history to learn more about the techniques preservationists use to frame pictures properly. Begin your on-the-job training as an apprentice framer. Keep a small notebook on you at all times to jot down notes and observations. You may have to work for free as an apprentice until you have the experience to expertly mount a picture. Use this time to soak up as much information as possible about the profession.

Want to learn more, click HERE to see Hight Street Gallery, a master framer.